Replacing the SSD in Asus Eee Slate EP121

I have an Asus Eee Slate EP121 Windows 7 tablet. Its Intel Core i5 CPU and 4GB RAM are not too bad for general applications uses but its 64GB SSD is simply too small for the Windows operating system and application software installations. Especially every month when Microsoft releases security updates, I often needed to clean up disk space to accommodate the update cycles. Recently Microsoft released Windows 8.1 RTM to developers, so I decided to purchase a CrucialM 500 Series 240GB SSD to replace the EP121's 64GB one and upgrade the tablet to Windows 8.1.

The mSATA SSD has bigger storage capacity than a memory stick but its size looks smaller than a notebook memory stick.

The EP121's back cover can be removed for SSD or memory upgrade. It is not screwed onto the tablet's main unit yet it uses hooks on four sides to tightly hold onto the metal frame on the tablet, therefore, it is not easy to be removed from the frame. People on Internet suggested various ways to remove it, but from my own experience on upgrading memory for a MacMini, I think the best tool for the job is a 1 or 2 inches wide putty knife.

To remove the back cover from EP121, first in order to avoid damaging the display screen during the operation, place a towel on the table and then put the tablet face down on the towel. Next is to hold the putty knife's blade at about half a inch from its front, then on each side of the tablet, insert the blade flatly between the cover and the metal frame. Push lightly until you hear pop sounds that signal the release of encountered hooks from the metal frame(Note: Do not push the blade all the way in, only to the extend that the blade tip can push hook off the frame, which should be within the half of an inch position that the fingers hold the blade at). Move the blade up and down on the side of tablet and do the same thing on all four sides. Some people mentioned that it is easier to start with the side that has USB ports, but I do not see the difference since hooks on all four sides need to be released from the frame for the cover to be removed. Hooks near four corners are harder to be pushed off the frame.

When the cover is fully released from the metal frame, be careful not to lift the cover straight up. On the tablet's USB port side, there is a black wire tape connecting the tablet and the cover. Therefore, open up the cover by lifting up the narrow side that does not have USB port clockwise to make the cover stand up on the side near the USB ports. To keep the back cover out of the way for SSD replacement operation, let the cover lean onto something(such as a beer mug) by its side.

The SSD is located on the upper left side of the tablet and is covered by a heat foil.

Carefully remove the foil from the side glued onto the metal casing to see the whole SSD.

Remove both screws that ties down the SSD to make it flap upward then pull it off its seating slot. Seat the new SSD, press it down and put both screws back to position to secure the SSD. Then put the heat foil back to its place.

After the SSD replacement, when putting the back cover onto the tablet, be careful with the handling of the cover, not to tear the black wire tape. To make the cover attach back to the metal frame, use thumb to press down four corners first. The hook also makes the pop sound when it attaches to the frame. Hooks on four sides are easier to press back in place when all four corners are secured in their positions.

To verify the installation of the new SSD and to install the operating system, connect a USB DVD drive and a USB keyboard to EP121. Press the F2 key while powering up the tablet will make it go into the BIOS.

Since the operating system will be installed through the external DVD drive, make sure it is first in the boot order.

The installation of Windows 8.1 also includes the Asus drivers to make the buttons on the tablet work with Windows 8.1. The button on the side with switch between Modern and Classic UI. The keyboard button and the rotation lock button by the power button, also work as expected.

Final Fantasy XIV - A Realm Reborn, can your computer run it?

There have been plenty of hot discussions on the Open Beta and Official Launch of Square Enix’s “Final Fantasy XIV – A Realm Reborn”(ARR) among Japanese and Western MMORPG players. I was a player of SE’s another Final Fantasy franchise, Final Fantasy XI, for over four years, but I gave up on it a few years ago because SE never released a PS3 version for it, and the PS2 that I had been playing the game on had reached end-of-life.

When SE released FFXIV in 2010, I was hoping it was a good replacement for FFXI so I tried playing it on a PC with an expectation of a PS3 version, but I abandoned it about a month later with great disappointment. Personally I felt its content and entertainment values were far behind FFXI. It simply could not bring me the kind of fun and excitements that I had experienced with FFXI.

SE finally called an end to FFXIV after all kinds of setbacks and troubles, but on top of those, complains and bad reviews from players and game critics simply drove players away. Then they decided to reinvent FFXIV and gave it a different name, “A Realm Reborn.” 

Could SE really do it? I had serious doubt even when I signed up for the early ARR betas, and I never participated until that day I received a reminder from SE to register my Beta 3 code and invited me to join Beta 4. On that same day I viewed some of the ARR trailers on Internet, and I was surprised to see some familiar FFXI elements among those video clips, thus I registered to play the PS3 version in Beta4, which was turned into an Open Beta later on. I also pre-ordered the PS3 version for the Early Access.  

During the Open Beta and the Early Access weekends, I and family played the game on its PC and PS3 versions. We had a blast! I was fully satisfied with the game and was convinced that SE had done FFXIV right in this new version! Both the PC and the PS3 versions were very stable and the graphics effects in the game were impressive. Story line aside, I was very impressed by all kinds of visual contexts in the game.

Now that the game was officially launched, after two weekends of long-hour playing, I am confident that ARR will bring me tons of fun and I have decided to return to this new “Final Fantasy” world which SE had created to indulge hundreds of thousands of MMORPG players.

Game player or not, if you are interested in this game, I want to share with you that, if you have a PS3, the game’s PS3 version is definitely stable enough to use. The visual effects displayed on PS3 are no less than running the game on a PC with high-end graphics adapter. But if you plan on playing the PC version, here are some benchmark scores on desktop as well as notebook computers for your references.  Overall, a PC with Intel Core i5 or above CPU, 8GB of RAM and a mid to high end nVidia or AMD graphics adapter shall run the game well. But you should also make sure your desktop or notebook PC has good heat ventilation, because once you get into the game you’ll most likely hang on to it for hours on each play, and the graphics adapter will heat up constantly to drive the ventilation fans nuts! 

On an Intel Core i7 Windows 7 64-bit PC with 16GBRAM and nVidia GT480 graphics adapter, this system gets great ARR benchmark scores. Connecting it to a big screen TV through HDMI will get great playing experiences.

This benchmark score was from a dual-boot 17" Macbook Pro with Intel Core i5 processor and 8GB RAM. It has an nVidia GeForce GT 330M graphics chipset. The benchmark shows that it can play the game with fairly high performance. 

This Intel Core 2 Duo systems with Intel G45/G43 Express Chipset is not suitable to play. The benchmark software could not even start when its Settings was set to test on High quality. 

To change the display quality for the benchmark, click Settings in the software and select a configuration from the "Graphics Presets" dropdown list.

Many high end notebook PCs in the market now come with both an Intel graphics chipset and a better graphics chipset for more intensive graphics processing. The DELL XPS 15z, for example, has an nVidia GeForce GT 525M chipset for 3D graphics. It could get over 3000 on ARR benchmark but some configuration to force the system to use the nVidia chipset is needed. 

On the system, launch nVida Control Panel and in "Manage 3D settings", change its "Preferred graphics processor" to "High-performance NVIDIA processor".

Then in the benchmark software's "Settings", change the "Display Settings" to the nVidia chipset. Although the benchmark screen still showed "Intel HD Graphics 3000", the result was definitely not from it. 

This retailed Asus desktop PC seems to have good system specifications but it only got a standard benchmark score. Which proves it playable though.

A Quick View on the 2nd Generation Google Next 7

Google started selling second generation Next 7 tablet recently. The box' content includes the tablet, a micro USB cable, an AC adapter and documentation.  

In the picture above, the one to the left is the 1st generation one and the other one is the 2nd generation Nexus 7.

Stacking both tablets together can easily tell that the new one is thinner.

The 2nd generation Next 7 is longer, narrower and thinner. Some reviewers already made the conclusion that it is easier to get damage during drop tests, therefore, those who are interested to purchase this tablet shall consider including a protection case at the same time.

The price of the entry level 2nd generation 16GB model is US$229, which is US$30 more than the 1st generation entry model, but it is still a good price considering that it has better hardware specification which includes 8GB more of storage, a 5 mega pixel rear camera, a faster CPU and a higher display resolution at 1200x1920.

This screenshot shows the picture size configuration in the Camera software..

The pictures above show the AnTuTu benchmarks. The 1st generation to the left and the 2nd generation one to the right.  AnTuTu detected more than 2GB of RAM on the new one, which is different from the 2GB size in the specification, perhaps the rumors on the memory size before the tablet's general availability were somehow accurate.

In addition, the new one's benchmark score is 5000 more, it seems the Quad-core Qualcomm Snapdragon model is in deed more powerful than the nVidia Tegra 3 processor in the older model.  The new one also has better better 2D and 3D graphics scores.

At start up, the new Next 7 received an update from Internet and restarted. Check its "About tablet" can confirm that it is using Android 4.3. 

Google's Android apps are pre-installed on the Nexus 7.

YouTube Player initialization error on Google TV

Google TV currently do not have too many software in the Google Play Store, and most of them are video streaming related. Among those video software, some of them mainly query contents from YouTube and use YouTube Player API from Google to play the videos. The YouTube Player API requires YouTube Player application on the Google TV devices to operate properly.

I have a Logitech Revue, one day after I updated the YouTube Player software on it, a video application I used daily no longer worked, and every time I launched the application, it prompted YouTube Player initialization error. The version of YouTube Player originally bundled with the Revue is version 1.3 but I was able to use that video application after the YouTube Player was updated to version 1.6. It seemed that version 1.6 was the version started supporting YouTube Player API.

After a bit research on the Internet and reading of reviews on the YouTube Player application on the Google Player Store, it appeared that the YouTube Player 1.7 does not work with YouTube Player API. In addition, from the complains by users, apparently version 1.7 broke plenty of good features in version 1.6.

On the Revue, I was not able to restore YouTube Player to version 1.6 because when I removed the update, the version was reverted back to the factory bundled version 1.3, therefore, I can only wait until Google fixes the problem in the YouTube Player.

But if your Google TV device is the first batch of the Asus Cube, if you have the similar YouTube Player initialization error in the application you use, you can indeed remove the update on YouTube Player to restore version 1.6 because it is the version bundled in Asus Cube.

The Mango Windows Phone that lost its sound

Windows Phone 8.0 does not support update from devices using earlier Windows Phone versions, even the version 7.5 which is commonly known as "Mango". Perhaps in an act to comfort the Mango phone users, Microsoft released a version 7.8 for 7.5 users to upgrade to and experience the new user interface like what the version 8.0 has.

I once was a Mango phone user, when the version 7.8 was available for update from 7.5, I was excited, and I happily updated my phone to that version. However, after the update, the radio streaming application that I used daily between work and home commutes no long played with any sound. I tried the same update on two Windows Phone 7.5 phones, both had the problem.

After spending some time looking for clues to resolve the issue, I did not find any solution and gave up. The root cause seemed to be pointing to the MediaElement class in Windows Phone API. Did Windows Phone 7.8 broke it!? Anyhow, I was too lazy to restore the phone back to the Mango version so I just waited and hoped that Microsoft would release fix soon.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed the update notification on my Windows Phone device. I followed the instruction to update the Windows Phone 7.8 on the phone and tried playing my radio streaming application. Surprisingly, the sound was back!! The update did fix the problem in Windows Phone 7.8.

I have two Mango phones, one is the HTC HD7 and the other is the Samsung Omnia 7. Both of them were updated to Windows Phone 7.5 and lost sound in the radio streaming applications. The version of Windows Phone 7.8 is shown here:

After the update for Windows Phone 7.8, the version shows on the Samsung Omnia 7 is 7.10.8862.144：

If you are using a Windows Phone 7.5 device and you are experiencing the same problem in any radio streaming application, updating to the version shown above should solve the problem for you too.

How do you make your car stereo play Bluetooth music?

Modern cars generally have stereo that has built-in Bluetooth for connection from mobile devices. For cars that do not have Bluetooth capable stereos, it is feasible to add such support to the stereo if it has an AUX port. This blog will show you how to turn your car stereo into a Bluetooth enabled stereo.

Items to prepare:

1. A Bluetooth speaker adapter like the "Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter."

2. A 5V output DC Car Adapter. Some car chargers for mobile game devices fit the spec.

3. A stereo cable with 3.5mm plugs on both ends.

Installation and configuration:

The "Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter" comes with a square device box, an AC adapter and a composite audio cable:

Before installation of the adapter in the car, hook it up to the house power outlet to power it up and pair it with a smartphone by pressing the "Connect" button(please follow the adapter's user's guide for the complete pairing detail):

On the smartphone, open the Bluetooth setting to find a "Logitech Adapter" device among Available Devices  to pair.

Click the discovered "Logitech Adapter" to pair with the smartphone, when they are paired, the "Paired devices" list on the smartphone will show the adapter's name and the "Connected to media audio" string, and the light on the adapter will become "solid green". 

After pairing the adapter with a smartphone, unplug it from the house power outlet and bring it to the car for installation. The installation here will be in a 2008 Subaru Impreza which has factory installed stereo system. 

The Impreza has a compartment between the front seats. Inside the compartment, it has an AUX port and a 12V power socket for a car adapter. This compartment is perfect for installing the wireless speaker adapter:

The installation is simple, plug in the car power adapter, plug one end of the 3.5mm audio cable to the wireless speaker adapter and the other to the AUX  port. Then place the wireless speaker adapter, audio cable and car adapter cable inside the compartment:

Now turn on the car power, switch the car stereo input to AUX. On the smartphone, connect to the Logitech Adapter paired earlier and launch a music app to play some music. The music will be output through the car's speakers as expected:

If the car's stereo does not have an AUX port, an option to hook up the wireless speaker adapter is to use a cassette tape adapter like shown in the picture below. But its output quality cannot compare to using the AUX port, and routing its cable to the compartment will not be pretty.